Pilgrim in Jordan - Amman

In the sweetness of friendship let there be laughter, and sharing of pleasures. For in the dew of little things the heart finds its morning and is refreshed. - Khalil Gibran

sep-2008-105-400x267 Pilgrim in Jordan - Amman

You may wonder, what does a pilgrimage have to do with Jordan? To say that my trip was a journey undermines its purpose. A journey may have little or no motif that lays the foundation on which the traveler directs his step.

I traveled to Jordan on a pilgrimage; the reasons I shall keep to myself. Through this reading (and the following posts), I hope you understand the purpose of my travels.

My arrival in Amman has been greeted with frowns - which I expected - and a 20 minute “interview” at the airport, given I am the only Syrian on the plane who suspiciously arrived when a bomb blew off in Damascus that very day. I have been alerted that such things are standard procedures, but I did not expect that I had to narrate my life’s story to the head of security for entertainment in an attempt to convince him I came to Jordan for tourism and not running away from serving the Syrian military.

sep-2008-109-400x267 Pilgrim in Jordan - Amman

Amman is a beautiful city. Some of you might be raising eyebrows (I know some of my friends in Dubai did when I told them where I was going), but I am an honest person and I can honestly say I loved Amman.

I traveled more or less everywhere - from Jabal al Taj to Al Hussein Gardens. My soul, however, found its place in downtown Amman - specifically where Knafet 7abeeba is (yes yes I know, food!). The simplicity of the place won me over the snobbish Abdoun area (which I admit, is a great place, but I don’t like such “high class” regions in a city) and seeing 7afartal, kids running about, people selling all sorts of stuff and men group-hollering and whistling at ladies next to a mosque is something you can’t not be amused about.

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Amman is much cleaner than Damascus - I admit - and is overall more “higher class” (arqa). However, the differences in social class is much more noticeable in Amman. Whereas in Damascus you could travel from the richest areas to the Old City without much of a change in scenery (bar the number of people per square meter and pollution), in Amman there is a stark contrast in the quality of the roads, houses (and number of houses) as well as the types of cafes and people - how they dress, act and live.

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The constant factor in Amman though, is cabs :D Anything that can be physically or verbally done against someone’s genitals can be learned from cab drivers.

It felt great to smell clean air. Clean? Yes clean. No dust, no humidity… a chilling, crisp breeze with clouds hung low. I miss the clouds, the blue sky, the clean fresh air - especially after the rain. The smell of the grass and the trees, and the wind, even if it is in downtown mixed with car fumes.

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Amman was the start of my pilgrimage. This is just a post of many to come - the Dead Sea, Amman again, and the grand finale of Petra and Rum. So stay tuned, and enjoy the Amman’s photos on my photo blog (I will upload the rest when the appropriate post is published!)

PS: for a brief cynical overview of the whole trip, check out Hamza’s post


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16 Responses to “Pilgrim in Jordan - Amman”

Qwaider قويدر mumbled on October 7th, 2008 at 2:47 am

Very nice collection KJ
I’m glad you had fun in Amman




Noura mumbled on October 7th, 2008 at 8:10 am

7amdellah 3ala salamtak..
I’ve never been to Amman but  it sure looks like Beirut  .. I loved the pics, it’s like am looking at my city and it sure brought some strange emotions too especially when you described the smell after the rain.

Next time to Beirut ? no don’t , am just kidding :)
welcome back..




Suha mumbled on October 7th, 2008 at 9:26 am

I liked the pics, I’ve been living in Amman for the past year it’s fun when you know where to go I guess!!
Ba3deen clean air where?? I always smell fuel infested crap but maybe you went to the less industrial places




Batoul mumbled on October 7th, 2008 at 11:50 am

The photographs do Amman too much justice lool. You’ve done a great job. Have you done the mo3amalet wa7eed? My bro has to go through the hassle, I’m sure you do too.

Ahhh, the simplicity… wherever it may be, its hits straight to the heart. I’m glad you’ve made the best of it :)




Ali mumbled on October 7th, 2008 at 1:00 pm

Kinan, you did a great job describing Amman, my favourite places in Amman are the Jara Flea Market in Jabal Amman and Lweibdeh and if you go outside Amman, the scenaries are much nicer and greener. I’m glad you had fun. But I’m surprised that you had to wait 20 minutes with the Immigartion as they are always quick with Arab nationals and people visiting.




KJ mumbled on October 7th, 2008 at 1:05 pm

Qwaider -
Thanks man! More to come!

Noura -
Allah ysalmek! I was planning to go to Beirut for a day but we though it wise to stay put in Jordan for this trip!

Suha -
Even if it smells of cars it is much better than smelling MORE of those cars + dust + humidity

Batoul -
Yes I did it and paid elli fo2i welly ta7ti! Well my dad did :P LOL

Ali -
Thanks Ali! I went to all those places you mentioned and loved them all :) Regarding the airport, I guess it was just a bad start to a great holiday :) It was a good exercise in maintaining my temper!




hamza mumbled on October 7th, 2008 at 1:29 pm

wow..those pictures are so HDRed




LostWithin mumbled on October 7th, 2008 at 5:17 pm

what I love about Amman is the contradictions  you find ! 
Glad some one understands that :D  and loves downtown amman it is the bestest place … I love those book shops where  used books are sold , 7abiba , the cafes ! it is awesome :D 

yella post soon ! I am waiting :D 




Angelo mumbled on October 8th, 2008 at 12:44 am

First of all, I’d like to applaud your choice of selecting one of Khalil Gibran’s poem verses as an opening for your post.

I’m astonished that there are some tensions between Syria and Jordon (maybe, I’m not keeping up with Arab News as I should be), but it’s good to hear everything went well and you had a good time there.

Amman is already placed in my travel list in the “Middle East section”, along with Tunisia, Lebanon, and Morocco. I have heard unappealing impressions regarding Jordon from many people, but then again, all of them were Arabs, and it’s very rare for an Arab to apprise a country than his own. So, I mostly take those comments with a grain of salt.  

Looking forward for more travel impressions. Have fun buddy :)




Hal mumbled on October 8th, 2008 at 12:43 pm

Dude. You’re a very observant guy :D

So I was in Amman for Eid, eh? And I was miserable and drowning in family obligations and constant guilt trips (3ajebtik Abu Dhabi ya3ni?? Mabsoota bidoon ahlik ya3ni??? EFTT!!!!!) and all I could think about was, I CANT WAIT TO GET BACK TO ABU DHABI.

Then I read this post of yours and realize, oh my God I miss it, I never appreciate it, I miss Amman, WHAT WAS I THINKING?

It’s all good…I’m still lovin’ Abu Dhabi, but thank you for this….puts things in perspectives, and kil sinneh oo inta salem ;)




asoom mumbled on October 8th, 2008 at 4:54 pm

I have to tell you though I got the worst case of food poisoning from knafa at habiba.  This was like 8 years ago and to this day I don’t think I’ve ever eaten knafa…just the smell can make my dizzy.

Awesome post…it made me forget the place you were actually describing ;)




KJ mumbled on October 8th, 2008 at 7:35 pm

hamza -
inta wa7ed 7asood efftt mesh 6abee3i :P

LostWithin -
Downtown is amaaaaaaaaaaaazing wallah I miss it kteeeeeer! Am writing the other post as I am replying to this :D

Angelo -
Thanks man! Jordan is a great place - you only have to change your attitude. Of course, as a tourist, visiting any place is different than living in it, as you have seen me complain about Dubai. However one also has to appreciate what IS there that ISN’T in other places.

Hal -
OMG family obligations… I didn’t go to Damascus because of that LOL! I can understand what you’re staying and does everyone here too!

asoom -
You serious?! Well we all stomach food differently - I had food poisoning from a supposedly high class outlet lol! Yalla 7amdella 3ala salametna




Pilgrim in Jordan - Hiking to the Stars | Jar of Juice mumbled on October 13th, 2008 at 9:40 pm

[...] bulbus you may like: Pilgrim in Jordan - Amman…Pilgrim in Jordan - The Dead Sea Controversy…Roll the Red Carpets! KJ COMING TO [...]




Um Omar mumbled on October 14th, 2008 at 7:18 am

I agree with your assessment of the cleanliness differences between Amman and Damascus.  Damascus has so many lovely buildings and so much going for it, but the trash everywhere and the black soot on the buildings is a big turn off.  We need to export some of our men in orange suits over the border to do a little tidying up in Sham.  (I can comment since I am married to a Shami.)




Damascus » i havent slept in a bed in four days mumbled on October 30th, 2008 at 3:14 pm

[...] Pilgrim in Jordan - AmmanAmman is much cleaner than Damascus - I admit - and is overall more “higher class” (arqa). However, the differences in social class is much more noticeable in Amman. Whereas in Damascus you could travel from the richest areas to the Old … [...]




Damascus » Pilgrim in Jordan - Amman mumbled on October 30th, 2008 at 3:24 pm

[...] Pilgrim in Jordan - AmmanAmman is much cleaner than Damascus - I admit - and is overall more “higher class” (arqa). However, the differences in social class is much more noticeable in Amman. Whereas in Damascus you could travel from the richest areas to the Old … [...]




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